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Formulas

Shadow Root

20g Express Tones Pearl + 10g Dark Neutral Ash + 45g Zero Lift Creme Developer

Lightening

30g Pure Light Ultra Lightener + 60g 10 Volume Creme Developer

Express Tones

40g Smokey Silver + 2g Violet + 63g Zero Life Creme Developer

Color

A. 40g VIVIDS Silver + 1g VIVIDS Black
B. 20g VIVIDS Silver + 40g VIVIDS Smokey Silver + 20g VIVIDS Pastels Luscious Lavender
C 20g Express Tones Clear + 15g Express Tones Pearl + 10g Express Tones Smokey Silver + 5g Express Tones Violet + 75g Zero Lift Creme Developer
D 20g Express Tones Clear + 40g Express Tones Smokey Silver + 2g Express Tones Violet + 93g Zero Lift Creme Developer

Application

Step 1 - Shadow Root

Create a 2” Face Frame section around the hairline. Apply the Shadow Root formula to the entire head at a 1” depth avoiding the Face Frame section to create a base to soften the regrowth.
To diminish any minerals in the hair, spray Purify & Revive PRIME generously to the rest of the hair and comb through allowing it to sit for 3 minutes while you mix your Lightening Formula.

Step 2 - Lightening (Back)

Beginning in the nape area up to the bottom of the crown, use a free-hand Global Blonding technique taking ¼” sections, applying the Lightening Formula and insulating with foil by laying them over each section as you complete it.

Pro Tip

Use a horizontal motion to separate the hair applying the product generously every 3 inches to both sides, then use a vertical brush stroke to meet the shadow root without blending the two together.

Step 3 - Lightening (Crown, Sides and Top)

For the crown, sides and top of the head, switch to a Back-to-Back slicing technique taking thin 1/8” sections and applying the Lightening Formula.

Pro Tip

Apply lightener to your foil first and then lay your section down and apply lightener on top to ensure even saturation. Avoid overlapping previously lightened hair during the application.

Step 4 - Lightening (Face Frame)

Finish by taking thin 1/8” sections for the 2” face frame section applying the Lightening Formula to the scalp (no shadow root).

Pro Tip

When your client has a lot of hair, mix fresh batches of your Lightening Formula so the hair will lift evenly.
After the hair has lifted to a light blonde, shampoo with Color Protect Cleanse, towel-dry and apply Silk Degrees Prep & Treat for 5 minutes to equalize the porosity, rinse and towel-dry the hair.

Step 5 - Tone to Set the Tone

Apply the Toning Formula extending the first Shadow Root 2-3” deeper in the back and more shallow towards the front, avoiding the 2” Face Frame section. Process 5 minutes, rinse and dry the hair.

Step 6 - Section

Create a Star Section on the top of the head extending the points towards the forehead, the middle of each ear and the top of the crown.

Pro Tip

This sectioning pattern creates Peaks and Valleys which allows you to easily apply the color formulas using a color blocking technique for added dimension.

Step 7 - Color (Back)

In the back of the head, divide the hair below the star’s peak in half horizontally at the occipital bone. Apply Color Formula A below the occipital bone to create depth and melt Color Formula A into Color Formula B above the occipital bone.

Step 8 - Color (Sides and Front)

Apply Color Formula C to the remaining hair underneath the Star section.

Step 9 - Color (Star Section)

For the Star section, melt Color Formula C into Color Formula D.
Process 30 minutes at room temperature, shampoo w/Color Protect Cleanse and towel-dry the hair.

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